More photos!

Well I haven't updated this thing for 5 days so I guess I owe you all:
1 - an apology
2 - some photos

I have a computer (in fact, a floor of this hotel) to myself and it closes in 2 hours time so I can upload lots of pictures for you guys to take a look at, plus explanation (and some of them need it). I won't go into extensive detail about everything I've seen over the last 5 or so days, either, because that'd most likely be pretty boring. Instead, I'll just give photos with some related words, in rough chronological order.

Let's start with last Sunday in Kyoto, in fact. I mentioned the kids dancing in front of the city hall, to 50s rock and roll. Here you go:



Next a photo of that tiny shrine in the hills near Nanzen-in that I mentioned last time. Not visible: waterfall or even tinier shrine up in the rocks. But this gives you an idea of it.



The next one is of the entrance to a shrine in the Gion area of Kyoto. The real name evades me but it's known locally as 'Gion-san', and is considered the area's local guardian shrine. This is where Gion residents come on New Year's Eve to pray for good luck in the upcoming year.



This next photo is a slice of photo album, picture-perfect Japan. I can't remember quite where it was, and I certainly don't know it's name (I don't think it was even in the Lonely Planet book) but I think this provided some of my favourite photos so far. Oh, that's a real heron (or whatever it is) perched on top of the shrine itself.



Here is a horrible photo of me gurning in the pouring rain (I was soaked through, or at least my lower half was) in front of the ENORMOUS torii gate leading to Kyoto's Heian-jingu shrine, just to prove I am actually here and not writing this from my bedroom in the UK.



My final entry, as it were, is of a festival I attended yesterday. I only knew about this thanks to one of my new friends here, who recommended I went. It turns out that this is a 'gaijin holy grail' - something all foreigners in Japan hear whispers of, but which relatively few actually end up managing to see. I got to see it. The subject of the festival is the fertility of the land for the year's upcoming harvest.

The day starts with food (crepes, takoyaki, okonomiyaki, sausages, chicken skewers, etc) and relaxed beers (with no raging drunks, I might add) while seated in the premium milk crate seating area.



Come 2pm (it was actually late though, surely a first in Japan!) the crowd gathers to view the parade. The Japanese can be suprisingly aggressive, and suprisingly tall, when they really want to see something.



The parade arrives, centered around the portable shrine. This is the portable shrine. No, I am not kidding, and yes, that is exactly what you think it is.



Japan, you may have some crazy stuff, but I'm going to have to work mighty hard to top this one.

Anyway, I am currently in Nagoya, thanks to the Nozomi super-express Shinkansen (bullet train) which took 44 minutes to do what took me over 2 hours on regular trains yesterday. Nagoya reminds me of Kobe despite being much bigger (the fourth largest city in Japan, I believe), which is a good thing.

More photos tomorrow, possibly, but before tomorrow I need to sleep. Goodnight everyone.

James

More of Kyoto

Hi folks,
Kyoto is certainly full of grand temples and shrines, but today I had the good fortune to stumble across something, quite by accident, which I think ranks amongst the most pleasing and suprising things I've seen here so far.

While exploring the Nanzen-ji temple area (which is HUGE), I followed a small path up into the hills past one of the sub-temples because, literally, I was interested to see where it went. The path became steeper as it went up into the hills around Kyoto, and then after maybe 5 mins steep walk it suddenly opened out into a forest clearing.

In the clearing was this wonderful little shrine, completely on its own and with no-one around, the only noise being that of a tiny waterfall behind it (complete with its own little incense-burning shrine). I noticed another little tiny path up to the right of that, so I took that up and it led to the tiniest little Buddhist shrine/altar you will ever see, actually cut into the rock in the middle of the forest. I have no idea why it was there, but it was probably more impressive than any of the huge temples I've seen around Kyoto (as great as they are).

It's difficult to describe the scene so I'll try to find some way of uploading photos off my camera at some point, but you'll have to hang on for that.

Oh, on a slightly different theme I bought a few of you some little bits and pieces today (as promised). I'll probably end up shipping them home from here since I don't want to carry the damn things around for the next 2 1/2 months, but you still won't get them until I get back (sorry).

Anyway, I should run. Feel free to email me - I'll try to read and respond to them all (at least for the time being).

James

Making friends in Japan

I've dived into this internet place for now since the weather is pretty terrible right now and apparently it will be all day, so I'm trying to find something I can do without getting drenched (which puts temple-hopping right out of the equation).

Anyway, if there's one thing many younger Japanese enjoy it's the chance to test out their English on a genuine foreigner (particularly English people, as opposed to Americans, presumably because of the accent). Yesterday when I stumbled across the Ireland Festival here in Kyoto, I got talking to some young Japanese people of about the same age who were in charge of running the information desk. It's amazing how far a little Japanese and a little English will go, and in the end Mayu, Arisa and I arranged to go for an Irish meal (to mark a very early St. Patrick's Day, I suppose).

Talking over a traditional Irish stew (a rarity in Japan, surely?) I managed to learn some basic Japanese, the difference between Kanji, Katakana and Hiragana script, how names are written in each (and when), what names can mean when their Kanji symbols' meanings are interpreted. I learnt about Japanese music and film (of the modern kind). I learnt about all sorts. In return they learnt about much the same - some more English (although their English was suprisingly good, and certainly better than my Japanese), about English music (although it's way morw widespread here than Japanese music is in the West)...

A couple of hours later and I've made two good friends in an entirely alien country. You can definately go around all the temples and shrines you like, and watch as much Japanese TV as you want, but you will never fully experience a country unless you make the effort to actually get to know the people as well, especially in your own age group (funnily enough, they both said they never got to speak to younger English people either, which suprised me a little).

I guess I'd better move on since I've almost used up all my 20 mins just typing this (Japanese keyboards seem very cramped so I keep hitting the wrong keys).

More updates soon, hopefully with photos if I can connect my USB lead to my hotel's PC.

Take care,
James

Sunday in downtown Kyoto

Today I thought I'd take it easy and explore downtown Kyoto on a Sunday, after all the lost wanderings of yesterday.

First stop was the Kyoto International Manga Museum. Manga, for those of you not clued up on Japanese culture, is Japanese comics. Whereas comics in the West tend to be aimed squarely at children, in Japan they are aimed at EVERYONE, often tackling complex social issues and telling long and complicated tales as well as providing a form as escapism, much as written novels do back home. Much of the artwork is absolutely beautiful and I whiled away a good time looking along the 'wall of manga' (an enormous 3 FLOOR LIBRARY) of manga publications. On display was also original artwork from manga and anime (literally, animated manga, which covers much the same ground) including (if you're not a fan, move on here) Darker Than Black, Cowboy Bebop and Naruto (just for you, Simon). No photos, since photography was prohibited, but it was beautiful and fascinating, at least if you knew what you were looking at.

After that I stumbled across the Kyoto City Hall. This was interesting for two reasons. Firstly, the grounds in front are at their best on a Sunday afternoon, I presume. I think the sight of a bunch of Japanese youths dressed in tight leather trousers, black shirts, big brass belt buckles, black leather shoes and with swept-back hair, all dancing to 50's rock and roll in the middle of a concrete park is probably the most absurd thing I've seen here, and that's saying a lot. I got some interesting photos and even some video I may try to post some time.

Finally I moved into the subway station for a coffee and what did I find? The Kyoto Ireland Festival. I didbn't expect that. Live Irish music in the middle of the subway entrance, free Jameson's tasting sessions which seemed to be going down a treat with any businessmen around at the time, and a street-level parade (which I sadly didn't get a photo of since my battery ran out).

All in all, considering the tiny area I covered, the amount of stuff I saw was unbelievable. Different from temples and shrines, but an equally valid part of Japanese life and culture and a wonderful window on it all.

Oh, and I forgot to mention the evening/late--night live music party (jazz, mainly) down by Kyoto river last night. Again, found totally by accident with the help of the two American guys I bumped into where I was eating), this was another thing that can only really be conveyed in photos. Where in the US or UK the place by the river would be filled with tramps and drug dealers, here it was a lively jazz party. No-one seemed to know why, but it was there and it was good, so everyone just embraced it and enjoyed themselves.

Right, better run before I get kicked off the computer in this new hotel (which is great).

Cheers all,
James

Kyoto

Konbanwa,
I just got in from my first full day exploring the wonders of Kyoto, often regarded as Japan's most beautiful city. I don't have photos now (I can't be bothered uploading them, but I might do either later tonight or tomorrow), but the aforementioned regards are true - it's amazing, and a far cry from the concrete jungle of Osaka (at least, if you wander even slightly off the beaten track).

And wander off the beaten track I did. I started off visiting the Imperial Palace (where new Emperors are still sworn in). You have to be over 20 and have a reservation to actually go in (s0 that's me out) but the public gardens/forest around the outside are wonderful. Then I attempted to navigate the Kyoto City Bus system and somehow made it to Kinkaku-ji, the famed 'golden temple' and one of the defining sights of Japan. Google it if you want a sneak preview, but it's pretty stunning. I'm tempted to go back when the light is better and/or in the cherry blossom (sakura) season to get even better photos.

Then off to the old town of Arashiyama, where I managed to get a tasty lunch of tempura soba (battered prawns on a bowl of thin buckwheat noodles in a fishy broth). When I say these prawns were the size of a fish like a sardine, I'm not lying. Following that I explored the temple and grounds at Tenryu-ji, and actually tagged along with a young couple of Stoke, UK (whoever you are, thanks for the map).

Following that I got utterly lost in Arashiyama, a much nicer prospect than getting lost in Osaka. This lead me not to find the temple I was looking for (Gio-ji) but a little place called Danrin-ji. The old guy obviously in charge of the place gave me a personal guided tour of the traditional Buddhist temple - despite the fact I caught him about 15 mins before closing time, he was more than happy to show me around. Again, another example of how so many people seem more than happy to go out of their way for foreigners in their midst.

After than I stumbled back through the streets of Arashiyama, with no particular clue where I was, and happened to spot a pair of apprentice geisha on their way down the street. I'd heard this was the place to see geisha and I wasn't let down.

I've not even scratched the surface of Kyoto here - indeed, there's more to see in Arashiyama and I may go back tomorrow to catch the things I missed.

Right, must run before my time on this PC runs out again...

Take care,
James

A second post in one day? Madness!

Hi all,
I just realised my hotel (I say hotel, it's actually a ryokan - Google it) has free net access and also has a working and open USB port. Great success!

I've attached a couple of photos of mine (finally!). Apologies for the image sizes - I have no way to resize but the connection here is fast enough for it not to matter.

The first is of some early cherry/plum blossom I spotted out in Osaka around Osaka-jo (Osaka castle) and its attached park. It's early yet but a few of the trees seem way out of synch with where they should be - they should be blossoming in a month or so here.


The second is of some bizarre 'Engrish' advertising I spotted down by Osaka aquarium, which I know some of you will get a kick out of (Si and Andrew, especially).


Third is a shot of the Earthquake Memorial Park in Kobe - in particular, a section of Pier 3 kept as it was exactly after the 1996 quake. It's only a tiny section but it's enough to be quite a powerful reminder.


Last is a shot of a garden in Kyoto, about 5 mins walk away from my current hotel/ryokan. It's an interesting example of how the Japanese manage to work areas of total tranquility into the midst of a bustling (and very noisy) metropolis.


I have a load more to say, much of it about how crazy this place is (in the best possible way), but it's hard to put into words without writing a short novel. I guess the platforms at Kobe train station which play the tune to "I've been working on the railroad" when a train approaches are a good start.

Must dash before my time on this PC is up.

Take care all,
James



PS - Expect more updates, potentially with photos, since I've actually found a couple of good internet access points now, and I'm in Kyoto for a week.

About time...

Hi all,
Finally found a PC that I can post to here from so here goes...

From the email I sent around you probably figured I got to Osaka with no problems (besides getting lost finding the hotel). I spent a couple of nights there, saw Osaka-jo castle (which I really, really wish I could upload some photos of) and got a great view from about 200m up the Umeda Sky Building. Then it started to rain.

Due to a combination of poor planning on my part, and just plain getting lost (the Japanese seem to have an aversion to labelling streets with names) I managed to blister my feet pretty nicely so I'm buying packs of blister pads like there's no tomorrow. Anyway, I moved on to see the Osaka Aquarium (containing the world's largest aquarium tank) and ended up walking around it at the same time as a party of what must have been several hundred young school kids. Seeing a foreigner in their midst caused much excitement.

Moving on from the aquarium and the surrounding port area, I went to find my new hotel...

...which turned out to be a total dive, located in what must be the ass-end of Osaka.

Next day I jumped on the first train to Kobe looking for a break from the somewhat unrelenting concrete mass of Osaka, and I found it.

There was a flurry of snow as soon as I arrived in Kobe (which seemed pretty unexpected since the temperatures are reasonable right now) and I finally hunted down a fine Okonomiyaki place, which I'd been after since I arrived. True to form, the best places are usually located off the beaten path, and this place (called Tada, in case you ever come to Kobe) did a fine Okonomiyaki. Fine except for the octopus in my mixed one, but you have to try everything once, right?

Further exploration yielded a decent business hotel a mile above the dump in Osaka, and a number of hidden shrines and the like. Some of these are beautiful and if I can find a way to upload the photos I will do.

Another suprise in Kobe was another fine restaurant, about a block away from my hotel down another little street. Called Nailey's Cafe, this place served the best pizza I have eaten outside of Italy, the best salad I have ever eaten, and had the most bizarre feel inside (National Geographic covers on the wall, Discovery Channel HD on a projector on the wall, and a life-size wicker reindeer standing inside by the door - I didn't get it either). The owners were unbelievably hospitable and spoke decent English to boot. Oh, and the Suntory Premium Malts beer was tasty too. If I go back to Kobe (likely, since beyond the rather striking Earthquake Memorial Park and the aforementioned shrines, I have some stuff I'd still like to see) I'll be back there.

The Earthquake Memorial Park can't really be explained without photos but they've preserved a section of one of the piers exactly as it was after the quake, and it really shows the raw power of what happened to Kobe back in 1996.

I'm running out of internet time here, but I've just arrived in Kyoto using the ever-efficient train system and thought I'd finally drop a post in here while I have the chance. More to come soon.

Take care all,
James